Late in the afternoon, village streets across the archipelago become a moveable feast. Above the din of cars, motorbikes, children and the cranking, cooing and raucous sounds of nature, distinctive local music heralds a most comforting message – it’s time to eat. The percussion of knives, spoons, bowls, plates, glasses all become part of a culinary orchestra and as the sun starts to descend it’s on with the show as a chorus line of street vendors appears on the horizon.

Nutmeg Fish soup

2 tbs oil

4 lemongrass 5 lime leaves

9 red shallots, sliced lengthwise

7 garlic cloves, sliced lengthwise, finely

1-2 mild red chilli, sliced finely

2 cups water

40gms galangal, smashed

10 nutmeg fruit or 10 wild starfruit

1 kg fish such as trevally, snapper, sliced into 5cmx5cm pieces 2 tomatoes, sliced into 8 kemangi or Thai basil, chopped

Heat the oil over a medium flame. Fry the lemongrass with the lime leaves for a minute. Add the red shallots and garlic and fry for 20 seconds, then add the mild chilli. Add the water and bring to the boil and simmer 3 minutes. Then add the nutmeg fruit or wild starfruit or lime juice.… Read More

Ulang-Ulang
Gado-gado with local almonds

200gms tuna or makerrel

1 tbs oil (sunflower, safflower )

¼ tsp terasi /shrimp paste (optl)

9 red shallots, finely sliced

1-2 mild red chilli, finely sliced

½ cup kenari or almonds, ground

2 tsp white or raw sugar

• tbs mild white vinegar

• medium cucumber, very finely sliced

½ cup mung sprouts (cleaned if possible)

• cup long beans, shaved in super thin slivers

½ cup carrot, grated

¼ cabbage, finely sliced

Slice the fish into bite-sized chunks approx 5cmx5cm. Heat the oil in a wok and fry the fish until dry. Add the terasi at the end and fry for 2 minutes. Grind the fish until dry with the terasi.… Read More