I guess it’s because it’s lunchtime and I’m hungry that I’m dreaming of Mie. Not me as in me, but Mie as in noodles. Fat, soft, slurpy, deeply chicken-broth fragrant, Jakarta-style noodles. Now everyone has their favourite and feel free to overload my inbox with suggestions. When you love noodles, what to do! But I love Bakmi Roxy in Cikini, or maybe it’s the name I love (Whatever happened to Bryan Ferry?)

Bakmi Roxy noodle house

The meat really has to be chicken and simmered in a slow-brewed chicken stock. And when I say chicken, it has to be dark, moist, super-tasty thigh.

And it should be chunky, with attitude. A memorable thigh-rich journey.… Read More

Pepesan ikan
Grilled fish in banana leaves

Indonesians are masters at cooking fish. This photo was taken in Aceh where they are privy to an enormous variety of fish from teeny thread fish to all types of mackerel, mahi-mahi, shark and so on. Sardines, frigate tuna and Spanish mackerel are the main fish used for pepesan ikan, but you can experiment with any firm fish. Or try it with salmon – it’s to die for! In lieu of banana leaves, wrap it in baking paper followed by an outer layer of foil. And instead of grilling or steaming, the fish can also be baked in the oven.

Spice paste:
3 red shallots or 1/4 onion, roughly chopped
6 garlic gloves
4 long red chillies, seeds discarded and roughly chopped
2 small red chillies, chopped
2 lemongrass stalks, roughly chopped
2 tablespoons chopped galangal
3 teaspoons chopped fresh turmeric
2 teaspoons chopped ginger
2 tomatoes, roughly chopped
3 candlenuts
1/2 teaspoon shrimp paste
2 teaspoons tamarind pulp, soaked in 3 tablespoons of water and strained
2 teaspoons coriander seeds
1 tablespoon grated palm sugar

600 g firm fish fillets, cut into short, fat fingers of roughly 2 x 4 cm
2 tablespoons oil
4 kaffir lime leaves, rolled into a bundle and finely shredded
2 tablespoons fried shallots
1–2 teaspoons sea salt
banana leaves
salam leaves

Pound the spice paste ingredients to a smooth paste in a mortar or blitz in a food processor.… Read More

I am in a taxi driving through the back streets of Jogjakarta past candy-coloured houses, warungs fringed with sunsilk satchets flapping in the sun, free-range goats grazing on dirt, grandpas chatting on rickety bamboo chairs, head-scarfed school girls and rice-fields.